I’ve totally been into Rubio’s fish burritos lately. They’re good despite the fact that the chain is en route to mega-corporate blandism. Perhaps it is again my San Diego background that looks past the suspiciously consistent guacamole and instead focuses on the simple flavor combinations.

No. Cal fish burritos have a lack of identity. The fish could be prepared in a variety of ways while the seafood itself can be anything from shrimp to salmon. No real definitive style seems to have emerged in the landscape dominated by carne asada. The same cannot be said about how they prepare and serve the fish down in San Diego.

Rubio’s is the self-appointed king of San Diego style fish tacos. Whether or not the authenticity of the Baja-style fish survived the importation into San Diego is not the issue. Rubio’s are everywhere; they are a fact of life in San Diego Mex food dining. Soon, it would seem, they will be a fact of life everywhere. They keep expanding and now have more than 170 restaurants and are in five western states.

Simple construction leads to delicious results. Beer-battered fish, cabbage, and beans form the foundation. A delicious mix of sour cream, salsa, onion/cilantro, guacamole and a white sauce round out the flavor profile. They say the guac is “fresh”, but I’m not so sure about that. The mysterious white sauce is the thing that really makes these fish burritos sing though. I think it’s a yogurt and mayonnaise combination, but whatever it is, one thing for sure is it gives the fish its characteristic deliciousness.

It took me a long time to come around to getting to the Market St. Mall location simply because it is a Mex food joint in a mall. However when I started yearning for a familiar fish burrito I knew I had to go back to the roots. Rubio’s may not have the best Mex food overall, but they know how to make one thing and make it well.