Delta, Fairfield, San Diego, Suisun City

March of the -berto’s

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adalbertos

San Diego style Mexican food has been steadily encroaching upon the Bay Area. Which is good news to all SD transplants. There are rumors of what may be an actual (or not) Roberto’s in San Jose. A trip down from San Francisco will soon enough solve that problem, but one thing is for sure: there is at least one ’berto’s close by. Adalberto’s in Fairfield.

Rolled tacos and tortas are the two great SD style Mex foods that San Francisco taquerias cannot seem to get right. The burritos are very different too, but time has blended those lines with SD establishments occasionally offering rice as an option. As for the relatively recent trend of adding French fries to burritos, well, lets just say I don’t crave those burritos.

It was the rolled tacos that lured the Burritowing team to Adalberto’s in Fairfield. That and the opportunity to kick around the California Delta for the day. A previous trip to Suisun City proved to be a delicious excursion, perhaps the discovery of an honest-to-goodness ‘berto’s would surface as a much needed flavor the Bay Area has sorely been missing.

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Civic Center/Tenderloin, Polk Gulch, Tendernob

Saigon Sandwich

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Hi Bánh mì, I’m back from vacation. Yes, of course I missed you. I only thought of you… Shh, shh… no more questions. Now let’s go get something to eat.

Saigon Sandwich Special Combo

Saigon Sandwich almost always has a line out the door. And it’s a line worth waiting in. A true hole-in-the-wall, the modest shop has been belting out the best Vietnamese sandwiches for some time now. The place is no secret. Vehicles pull up to let passengers out; it is apparent the patrons don’t live in the neighborhood. The line can move fast or the line can move slow depending on how many sandwiches are ordered; people like to stock up. Waves of people leave as orders are filled, and the cars that are circling the block pick up the other half of the sandwich team. The day grows long, the bánh mì move out the door, and my Special Combination awaits.

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Monterey Bay

Isidro’s Taco Shop

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Isidro's Taqueria

Every good breakup deserves revisiting. Sometimes these trysts only serve to remind you about why you left in the first place. Other times, they create the spark that is needed to kick-start the relationship back into action. I’m not ready to commit quite yet, but Burrito was certainly at the right place at the right time this past weekend in Monterey.

While every man appreciates beauty, sometimes it’s the unadorned that arouse us the most. Isidro’s Taqueria didn’t appear attractive at first glance, but closer inspection revealed true beauty. And there was a drive-thru – an alien concept in San Francisco. A chance to mingle with local flavor certainly could not be passed up. Housed in what could have been an old Taco Bell, Isidro’s didn’t look the part, but a quick tour of the menu sealed the deal. All the essentials were represented, and the prices fair. I selected a driver-friendly item, and pulled on up to the window.

The carnitas burrito conveniently emerged from the window, a welcome tube of tightly wrapped deliciousness. The meat was moist and flavorful and balanced nicely with the seasoned rice. These two ingredients formed the bulk of the burrito, with standard fillings also dotting the landscape. It was a very mild experience, a relationship that would be easy to slide back into. Although the hot sauce wasn’t very spicy, the flavor was there and the salsa complimented the familiarity of the event. I’ve had hotter, but for this particular Burrito, the mildness was appropriate and served as a reminder of previous encounters.

Located just off of highway 1, a couple of stops north of Monterey on Del Monte Blvd., Isidro’s Taco Shop is a convenient stop when leaving town. Despite my recent flirtation with Bánh mì, Isidro’s is definitely a taqueria worth remembering. Certainly for this hungry man, I’d like to thank Isidro’s Taqueria for a night morning I’ll never forget. There’s a good deal more to this story, but after all, what happens on vacation, stays on vacation.

Isidro's Taqueria Menu

Civic Center/Tenderloin, Polk Gulch, Tendernob

Gringowings: Hold the headcheese?

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Lee's Sandwiches - ham and cheese

It’s probably safe to say that headcheese is not the most popular luncheon meat in the US. Raised on a diet of TV commercials and fast food, there is little room for gelatinous foods. Maybe its because headcheese is too shiny for TV, or maybe we have just been exposed to fast food blandburgers for so long that our collective gullet is unappreciative of any textures that deviate too far from what is found on the dollar menu. Or maybe it is because headcheese just sounds gross.

Oddly discomforting in both name and description, headcheese is a pressed meat made from – you guessed it – pieces of skin and meat from the head of an animal. It has a rich history as a peasant food and there are many traditional variations across multiple cultures. As delicious as headcheese is, it isn’t for everybody, mostly due to its gelatinous nature. Since bánh mì is the new burrito, I took it upon myself to revisit Little Saigon and pick up a Euro sandwich. Don’t say I never did anything for you, Burritowingers.

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Civic Center/Tenderloin, Polk Gulch, Tendernob

BÁNH MÌ IS THE NEW BURRITO

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lees

When the burrito hunger strikes it usually begs to be satiated with some sort of grilled meat. So it was something of a surprise when I recognized the hunger, but discovered that it was specifically for a super vegetarian burrito.

It has been years since I’ve had a veggie burrito. Of course, I’m not talking about some ridiculous burrito filled with actual vegetables, rather I mean the San Francisco standby by of a super burrito, just without meat. I expected to soon be eating a flour tortilla filled with rice, beans, cheese, sour cream, salsa, onions/cilantro, avocado, and maybe lettuce. That’s it, that’s what I wanted. So I went off on a search for a menu item I haven’t had in years.

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Civic Center/Tenderloin, Polk Gulch, Tendernob

Burrito meet Bánh mì

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banh_mi_special_combo

Dear Burrito,

It’s not me, it’s you. You’ve changed. What was once a delicious love affair has turned stale. While our spicy romance has not exactly turned sour, one cannot deny the sad fact that you do not seem to be putting any effort into this relationship.

Not to mention, you’re not a cheap date anymore.

I’ve found somebody new. Burrito, meet Bánh mì.

Bánh mì gives me the spice and flavor I crave with the variety I am looking for. Unlike you, I can afford to take Bánh mì out for a night on the town. I wish I could say that I want you to be more like Bánh mì, but that’s not exactly true. I look at Bánh mì in much the same way as I used to look at you. Sadly, you’ve changed and not for the better. Some might say you have become downright erratic.

Bánh mì will be taking your place. At least for a while. While nobody can ever truly replace you Burrito, for now bánh mì is the new burrito.

Sincerely,
Super Burrito Bánh mì

South San Francisco

Choosing La Morena

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lamorena
Choices. Red or green salsa? Luckily, I didn’t have to decide on this particular issue. Both were laid out before me in large tubs resting in ice. Red or green? Naturally, I took one of each. But not all decisions are so safe.

Which is precisely why a trip to South San Francisco took me to La Morena. Along Grand Avenue and its side streets there are numerous selections when it comes to choosing a taqueria. La Morena is the only one I’ve ever been to. I was introduced to the al pastor at La Morena some years back by Toby – with considerable enthusiasm, I might add. Since then, I haven’t even bothered to try anything else. I know the al pastor is going to be great. And it always is.

But I can live vicariously through others. As I was shown the way of La Morena, I passed the knowledge on to Forest. As we drove through South City, every taqueria he saw he would ask if it was it.

“No,” I would reply. It wasn’t, and no other place would do.
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Civic Center/Tenderloin, Downtown SF, San Diego

Dear Rubio’s: Why must you torture me?

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bloodyvalentinetaco.jpgForest and I went to check out the remake of My Bloody Valentine. I give it a solid A, not expecting the story line or casting to be top notch, which it wasn’t. It was good, just not great. Its positive grade reflected upon the fact that, to me, it achieved its primary goal of being a 3D movie filled with fun, camp and gore. It achieved that nicely. My buddy, however, expected more, highlighting that the cheesy pretty actors had no business being in a real horror movie. This is one of those rare times that we are both right. All I wanted out of it was a decent story that strayed far enough from the original. As long as the effects were good, I was happy.

We did not agree on the deliciousness of the pre-movie meal, which was a trip to the Rubio’s that lives in the bowels of the mall. This being near BWHQ, and as a San Diego native, I am quite familiar with the chain. Forest, somehow, entered blind. He played it safe by ordering chicken tacos. He later blamed me for not telling him Rubio’s was about the fish, a detail that may or may not be true. Either way, he enjoyed his tacos and was quite satisfied.

I was not.

I know damn well what ‘three rolled tacos with guacamole’ can ultimately be. Done right, the cheese sticks to the guacamole, which sticks to the rolled taco which forms a crunchy, creamy base upon which to pour liberal amounts of hot sauce. Unfortunately, this meal was not done properly. The rolled tacos had but a sprinkling of cheese, less than even in the photo above, which was from a previous visit. The guacamole didn’t last as long as the rolled tacos. The overall taste was good, but sadly I am reminded that true rolled tacos are still not available in this town.

I have an on again/off again relationship with Rubio’s, but that is more due to the side effects of their becoming a mall chain. Being the only game in town serving up SD style Mexican food, I have little choice but to accept Rubio’s shortcomings. After all, they do get some things right; it’s not like the food is bad. However, their expansion has unearthed a lack of focus that ultimately reduces the overall experience. Like My Bloody Valentine, which had the novelty of 3D to support it, if it weren’t for Rubio’s San Diego heritage, it would be just another sub par offering.

Civic Center/Tenderloin, Mission District, Outer Mission, SOMA

The annual changing of the taqueria calendar

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taqcal.jpg

Rolled-up tubes of time are scattered about San Francisco’s burrito shops every year starting in December. They go fast, and this past year was no exception. My first trip to the hot spots resulted in empty hands and disappointment until I popped my head into Can-Cun on Market Street. Only two remained, and I quickly grabbed one only to find out upon unfurling that the calendar would have been more appropriate on a votive candle. Nothing could be more disappointing than expecting to find a beautiful girl and instead unwrapping a nun. Luckily, a follow-up trip to the popular Mission Street location revealed the beauty you see above. That was a close one, Can-Cun, however consider redemption found.

I find it hard to complain about something received for free, but consider some of the other calendars out there. Aztec warriors in full headdress protecting their pyramids have always been a favorite motif. I’ve even heard of one such example complete with a flying UFO in the background. Way cooler than a picture of some saint and child. Even the kitty cat calendar Greg found would have been better.

Finding redemption in the taqueria isn’t really anything new to me. The beauty in Mexican food not only lies within the taste, but also in the celebration of life. The festive colors and spicy flavors are a reflection of the spirit. There’s always something new to try, and if a bad taste comes along, consider it a fluke and get on back out there. Much like this past year. And in at least one case, I expect to see a better year. Just ask the girl in the calendar, I’m sure she will agree.

San Diego

Secret place not so secret

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El Zarape

I re-re-discovered San Diego’s great Mexican seafood. A place I’ve been to before, and forgot where it was. San Diego does that to me. After years of trolling the streets of San Diego at all hours of the day and night, locations tend to blend away. No matter though, because reconnecting with old buddies Jeff and Cara led me back to the source. The source of deliciousness that is.

The place is hopping; its popularity is evident. As such, I won’t give out the name here, suffice to say I’ll just call it Z. No, that would be giving away too much. I’ll call it El. Yeah, that’s much better. El it is.

As you can see it was a rainy day in San Diego (further obscuring the identity of this delicious restaurant), and at first glance the menu inside mirrored the wet conditions outside; food that lives in the sea was definitely the star. All in all, I managed to sneak in two visits to El, each time taking in a different seafood delight. All were excitingly delicious. I had a lobster enchilada plate that came with a fish taco along with the obligatory rice and beans. Jeff didn’t take too kindly to the rice, but we both thought the beans were excellent, and as Jeff says, “you can really tell about a place from the beans”. Or something like that. Whatever the quote, the sentiment was there, El kicks ass.

The second trip brought me face to face with a scallop burrito (if scallops had faces, that is). This was truly a something special. Tons of scallops that were cooked to perfection resulted in a creamy and delicious burrito. The best thing about it was realizing what a great base scallops are for a burrito. It’s not hard to imagine some delicious combinations that could be harvested from the depths of El’s menu. As I always like to say when I find a great Mex food joint: Clearly, more research is needed. Just don’t go looking for the place so as I can still find a seat when I visit.