Category Archives: Civic Center/Tenderloin

Taqueria Cazadores

I like ham. I like cheese. I like rolled tacos. How could I not like ham and cheese taquitos?

cazadores

One day, while cruising around with Greg looking for something to do, we walked by that taco cart on Mission at S. Van Ness. They were closing up for the day, but while there we checked out the menu. Although I have spent a good amount of time reading Mexican food menus, it’s not uncommon for me to still come across something new. That’s part of the beauty of Mexican food. It is versatile; all the ingredients are there, they just need to be put together. Usually however, the names, while vaguely descriptive, still need some amount of deciphering. Not so in this case. Under the common heading of Taquitos was a description I had never come across before.

“3 Crispy Ham and Cheese Tacos, Lettuce, Sweet Salsa, Guacamole, Sour Cream”

What the hell was this?

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Can-Cun Taqueria at Market and 6th

Can-Cun Taqueria, Market and 6th, San Francisco

Sometimes you just want to go with a classic. When that craving hits, nothing else will do. When it comes to a burrito, that translates into needing a burrito from a specific taqueria. In that sense, I found myself with a burrito on my mind. Specifically, a grilled chicken super burrito from Can-Cun.

Like all SF burrito joints that have enjoyed any success, the consistency is suspect. After many years of ‘research’, I have come to the conclusion that weekday lunchtime is the best time to experience a taqueria at its best. With that in mind, I made a beeline for the Can-Cun at Market and 6th knowing that chances were good my meal would hit the mark.

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Gringowings: Rubio’s All-American Taco

“The burger with a Beach Mex Twist”

Rubio’s All-American Taco

A hamburger patty has no business being inside a taco. For a chain that is known for their fish tacos, this foray into the American palette is a mistake. Burgers are meant to be on buns for a reason. The hearty bread structure soaks up condiments while still supporting the ingredients. Put these same ingredients in a flour tortilla and you got Rubio’s All-American Taco.

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Saigon Sandwich

Hi Bánh mì, I’m back from vacation. Yes, of course I missed you. I only thought of you… Shh, shh… no more questions. Now let’s go get something to eat.

Saigon Sandwich Special Combo

Saigon Sandwich almost always has a line out the door. And it’s a line worth waiting in. A true hole-in-the-wall, the modest shop has been belting out the best Vietnamese sandwiches for some time now. The place is no secret. Vehicles pull up to let passengers out; it is apparent the patrons don’t live in the neighborhood. The line can move fast or the line can move slow depending on how many sandwiches are ordered; people like to stock up. Waves of people leave as orders are filled, and the cars that are circling the block pick up the other half of the sandwich team. The day grows long, the bánh mì move out the door, and my Special Combination awaits.

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Gringowings: Hold the headcheese?

Lee's Sandwiches - ham and cheese

It’s probably safe to say that headcheese is not the most popular luncheon meat in the US. Raised on a diet of TV commercials and fast food, there is little room for gelatinous foods. Maybe its because headcheese is too shiny for TV, or maybe we have just been exposed to fast food blandburgers for so long that our collective gullet is unappreciative of any textures that deviate too far from what is found on the dollar menu. Or maybe it is because headcheese just sounds gross.

Oddly discomforting in both name and description, headcheese is a pressed meat made from – you guessed it – pieces of skin and meat from the head of an animal. It has a rich history as a peasant food and there are many traditional variations across multiple cultures. As delicious as headcheese is, it isn’t for everybody, mostly due to its gelatinous nature. Since bánh mì is the new burrito, I took it upon myself to revisit Little Saigon and pick up a Euro sandwich. Don’t say I never did anything for you, Burritowingers.

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BÁNH MÌ IS THE NEW BURRITO

lees

When the burrito hunger strikes it usually begs to be satiated with some sort of grilled meat. So it was something of a surprise when I recognized the hunger, but discovered that it was specifically for a super vegetarian burrito.

It has been years since I’ve had a veggie burrito. Of course, I’m not talking about some ridiculous burrito filled with actual vegetables, rather I mean the San Francisco standby by of a super burrito, just without meat. I expected to soon be eating a flour tortilla filled with rice, beans, cheese, sour cream, salsa, onions/cilantro, avocado, and maybe lettuce. That’s it, that’s what I wanted. So I went off on a search for a menu item I haven’t had in years.

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Burrito meet Bánh mì

banh_mi_special_combo

Dear Burrito,

It’s not me, it’s you. You’ve changed. What was once a delicious love affair has turned stale. While our spicy romance has not exactly turned sour, one cannot deny the sad fact that you do not seem to be putting any effort into this relationship.

Not to mention, you’re not a cheap date anymore.

I’ve found somebody new. Burrito, meet Bánh mì.

Bánh mì gives me the spice and flavor I crave with the variety I am looking for. Unlike you, I can afford to take Bánh mì out for a night on the town. I wish I could say that I want you to be more like Bánh mì, but that’s not exactly true. I look at Bánh mì in much the same way as I used to look at you. Sadly, you’ve changed and not for the better. Some might say you have become downright erratic.

Bánh mì will be taking your place. At least for a while. While nobody can ever truly replace you Burrito, for now bánh mì is the new burrito.

Sincerely,
Super Burrito Bánh mì

Dear Rubio’s: Why must you torture me?

bloodyvalentinetaco.jpgForest and I went to check out the remake of My Bloody Valentine. I give it a solid A, not expecting the story line or casting to be top notch, which it wasn’t. It was good, just not great. Its positive grade reflected upon the fact that, to me, it achieved its primary goal of being a 3D movie filled with fun, camp and gore. It achieved that nicely. My buddy, however, expected more, highlighting that the cheesy pretty actors had no business being in a real horror movie. This is one of those rare times that we are both right. All I wanted out of it was a decent story that strayed far enough from the original. As long as the effects were good, I was happy.

We did not agree on the deliciousness of the pre-movie meal, which was a trip to the Rubio’s that lives in the bowels of the mall. This being near BWHQ, and as a San Diego native, I am quite familiar with the chain. Forest, somehow, entered blind. He played it safe by ordering chicken tacos. He later blamed me for not telling him Rubio’s was about the fish, a detail that may or may not be true. Either way, he enjoyed his tacos and was quite satisfied.

I was not.

I know damn well what ‘three rolled tacos with guacamole’ can ultimately be. Done right, the cheese sticks to the guacamole, which sticks to the rolled taco which forms a crunchy, creamy base upon which to pour liberal amounts of hot sauce. Unfortunately, this meal was not done properly. The rolled tacos had but a sprinkling of cheese, less than even in the photo above, which was from a previous visit. The guacamole didn’t last as long as the rolled tacos. The overall taste was good, but sadly I am reminded that true rolled tacos are still not available in this town.

I have an on again/off again relationship with Rubio’s, but that is more due to the side effects of their becoming a mall chain. Being the only game in town serving up SD style Mexican food, I have little choice but to accept Rubio’s shortcomings. After all, they do get some things right; it’s not like the food is bad. However, their expansion has unearthed a lack of focus that ultimately reduces the overall experience. Like My Bloody Valentine, which had the novelty of 3D to support it, if it weren’t for Rubio’s San Diego heritage, it would be just another sub par offering.

The annual changing of the taqueria calendar

taqcal.jpg

Rolled-up tubes of time are scattered about San Francisco’s burrito shops every year starting in December. They go fast, and this past year was no exception. My first trip to the hot spots resulted in empty hands and disappointment until I popped my head into Can-Cun on Market Street. Only two remained, and I quickly grabbed one only to find out upon unfurling that the calendar would have been more appropriate on a votive candle. Nothing could be more disappointing than expecting to find a beautiful girl and instead unwrapping a nun. Luckily, a follow-up trip to the popular Mission Street location revealed the beauty you see above. That was a close one, Can-Cun, however consider redemption found.

I find it hard to complain about something received for free, but consider some of the other calendars out there. Aztec warriors in full headdress protecting their pyramids have always been a favorite motif. I’ve even heard of one such example complete with a flying UFO in the background. Way cooler than a picture of some saint and child. Even the kitty cat calendar Greg found would have been better.

Finding redemption in the taqueria isn’t really anything new to me. The beauty in Mexican food not only lies within the taste, but also in the celebration of life. The festive colors and spicy flavors are a reflection of the spirit. There’s always something new to try, and if a bad taste comes along, consider it a fluke and get on back out there. Much like this past year. And in at least one case, I expect to see a better year. Just ask the girl in the calendar, I’m sure she will agree.

TAQUERIA CASTILLO – TORTA

Taqueria Castillo

It’s been a long time since I ordered a torta in San Francisco. The Mexican sandwich is quite often delicious, but it’s usually just wrong. I can’t imagine that a French roll plays a huge part in the history of Mexican cuisine. Unfortunately, that’s often what you find around here; Mexican ingredients on average white bread. No matter how delicious the sandwich might be, I just can’t help but think that’s a creation better left for Subway. Like rolled tacos in San Diego, perhaps a proper torta never made it up here.

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